Saturday, December 31, 2016

DIY Faux Shiplap Wall

Happy Saturday! I have been keeping myself super busy around the house over my Christmas break and to be honest, I'm loving every minute of it! My husband also took the week off, so it has been the perfect time to complete a few home projects. Our most recent project was our faux shiplap wall in our bedroom. I am going to be honest, I was fully prepared to help out 100% with this project, but with us living in a Cape Cod style home, making the cuts to fit our space was not exactly my cup of tea. So, my husband's best friend came to help out. I'm going to share the tips and tricks we used, as well as some alternative suggestions for a home that is structured differently than ours.

- 1/4 inch plywood sheets cut down into 6 3/4 inch (or whatever you prefer) planks (We used birch plywood)

- 3/4 inch screen moulding (if you want to add trim- I would only reccommend doing this if you have Cape Cod angled walls)

-Spacers (you can also use coins as spacers- 1 nickel or 2 pennies) We used 1/4 inch spacers.

-Brad Nail Gun

- Circular Saw (what we used) You could also use a miter saw or a table saw

-Wood Filler


- Paint (I used one quart of Olympic paint in the color Snowbank)

-Painting supplies (painters tape, paintbrush, paint roller, paint tray) 

So first off, our "shiplap" wall isn't really shiplap. My husband works at a lumber yard and was able to grab us 2 sheets of 1/4 inch birch plywood and cut it down into planks. If you are local and looking for good quality lumber, Schmuck Lumber Company is a great small business to support (locations in Hanover and Gettysburg, PA). They will cut the pieces down to the size you need as well. My husband cut our planks down to 6 3/4 inch planks. You can cut your planks into whatever size you want. I have seen other bloggers use 8-12 inch planks. It's whatever works best for your space. 

My first and most important piece of advice for this project is to NOT use the trim or ceiling as a guide to where you should place your first plank. Your trim or ceiling is more than likely NOT level and could throw off your alignment. Since our trim was a perfect example of NOT  being level, the boys just shaved down the top part of our first plank to make it level. Another option would be to place your plank just below the trim, make sure it's leveled, and just caulk the small space in between the first plank and trim. Now that you have your first leveled plank in place, placing the remaining planks should be a piece of cake.

Since we live in a Cape Cod style home, the boys had to angle the planks to fit our slanted wall. However, if you do not have angled walls to worry about, you won't have to make any diagonal cuts when placing your planks. You will be able to place the planks right up against the connecting wall. You can see in the picture below that after the boys got past the angles, they just needed to place the planks. 

The next step will be completely up to you and what your preference would be. The boys used 1/4 inch spacers to space the planks. I have read other DIY blogs that have used coins  (2 pennies or a nickel) to space their planks. 

To secure our planks the boys used a brad nail gun. 

Once all of the boards were placed, we decided to add trim. The reason we did this was because of the slant and angles of our wall. I love how the trim made the planks pop a bit more! If you don't have angled walls, I would not even worry about trim. We used 3/4 inch screen moulding and cut it to fit the space. 

After the planks and trim were in place, it was time to fill the nail holes. This again will be your preference. If you want more of a "rough" look, you can leave the nail holes unfilled. I do love this look, but it just wasn't working in our space. So, I filled the holes with wood filler. I am not going to lie. Filling the holes was AWFUL to start. I used Stainable Wood Filler by Minwax and I could not for the life of me get the wood filler to come out of the tube. I cut the tube to a larger opening and then ended up using small scissors to scrape the filler out. It was fast drying and it was almost like it was drying before even coming out of the tube! Buttttt, I made it through and finally got a rhythm down. 

 Before adding wood filler ( I did add a coat of paint to see what it would look like without filling the holes)

After adding wood filler

After the holes were filled, I went over the entire wall again with sandpaper to smooth out where I filled the nail holes. I used a piece of sandpaper and it was super quick and easy. You can use a handheld sander, but with how small our space was I just decided to do it by hand.

Once the sanding was done, I cleaned the wall with the vacuum and was ready to paint. I used 1 quart of Olympic paint and primer in the color Snowbank. This is considered more of an off white. I did two coats of paint on our wall. I do reccommend that as you are painting your planks, have something small enough to fit in the spaces between the planks so you can get the excess paint out from the spaces. I used a plastic ruler and just glided that through the spaces after painting the planks. This way you wont have clumps of paint in between your planks or drip marks. 

Hopefully this post gives you some inspiration for your own faux shiplap wall! WARNING: the end result may cause you to want to shiplap your entire house! :) As always, thank you so much for reading and supporting my blog!